You Are What You Eat: Chinese Ethnic Restauration in Paris as Identity Work

Abstract

This study investigates the role of French-born Chinese restaurateurs in Paris as arbiters of identity who are redefining the cultural significance of Chinese cuisine for a predominantly non-Chinese clientele. Utilizing semi-structured interviews, the field study delves into how these ethnic entrepreneurs utilize their culinary concepts as a platform for cultural identity negotiation and challenging dominant cultural narratives. The primary research question(s) explored are: How do these restaurateurs use their mercantile and culinary strategies to stage diasporic identity and influence sociocultural dynamics? To what extent does internalization of dominant tastes (habitus) influence their staging of identity versus more pragmatic principles of instrumental rationality? The findings reveal that dining and food consumption extend beyond mere social activities to become venues for complex cultural negotiations, where ethnic entrepreneurs challenge and navigate cultural hegemonies and identity formation processes. The study underscores the nuanced role of ethnic cuisine in altering cultural perceptions and power dynamics within a multicultural urban context. This research suggests further comparative analysis across different diasporic communities and direct engagement with consumers and industry stakeholders to enrich understanding of the broader sociocultural implications of ethnic culinary entrepreneurship.